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Sun
7
Oct '12

The New and Improved Faneuil Hall & Quincy Market in 2012

the new and improved faneuil hall and quincy market in 2012

Faneuil Hall, Boston MA

Once Boston’s crowning achievement of tourism success, Faneuil Hall (pronounced Fan-Yul) in recent years has declined in revenues, especially to local Bostonians. Thanks to two major events this year, Faneuil Hall and Quincy Market will be well-positioned to regain their former glory.

First, Historic Faneuil Hall, once the gathering place for both the American Revolution and the Abolitionist Movement, reopened in May 2012. The renovation includes upgraded facilities, a better layout, and a National Park Service kiosk with its proprietary app, to provide information to visitors about Boston National Historic Park and Boston African American National Historic Site, among others.

The new facility, a collaboration between the City of Boston and the Department of the Interior’s National Park Service, includes interactive exhibits, an audio visual orientation program, handicapped-accessible public restrooms, a bookstore and several local vendors selling goods ranging from coffee to art work. The space is comprised of 7400 square feet for visitor services with related office and community meeting space.

The Boston National Park Service app, downloadable at the visitor center, features custom maps, and turn-by-turn directions to dozens of historic sites.  According to Mayor Menino “Whether you’re a tourist, a young student on a field trip, or a day tripper from outside the city, this exciting new visitor center will enrich what is already one of the nation’s great historic and recreation destinations,”

Neiman Marcus in Natick MA

On the for-profit side, Faneuil Hall Marketplace was sold to Ashkenazy Acquisition Corp in May of this year. The New York firm oversees several other high-profile centers, including Union Station in Washington, D.C., and the Rivercenter Mall in San Antonio. Their  investment strategy is to acquire irreplaceable properties in premier locations, transforming the famed Faneuil Hall Marketplace into a world-class destination for locals and visitors alike.

So far, they have hired Elkus Manfredi Architects, the same firm that designed the unusual Neiman Marcus store in Natick, MA. Ashkenazy’s initial plans include bringing a hotel to the upper levels of South Market, currently housing office space and some retailers. Quincy Market will also get a facelift, moving in specialty food boutiques and adding more restaurants. The timeline for this major renovation is not yet known, as the new ownership is just taking effect.

 

Mon
13
Aug '12

Yarmouth NS and Yarmouth MA, a Tale of Twin Cities in Cape Cod & in Nova Scotia

Cape Fourchu Lighthouse, Yarmouth NS

A number of ties exist between Massachusetts and Nova Scotia; however, for the cities of Yarmouth, MA and Yarmouth, NS, the resemblance is that of identical twins! Both cities are renowned for their iconic lighthouses, pristine beaches and historical ties. Yet, Nova Scotia’s history is inexorably linked to Yarmouth, MA for the early settlers came from Massachusetts after the Acadians were expelled by the British, naming it after their Massachusetts home.

Nova Scotia’s Governor Charles Lawrence invited planters from New England to come to Nova Scotia and settle after the Acadian Expulsion in 1755. Two thousand families responded, largely farmers and fisherman, settling in what is now Yarmouth, NS from 1759 to 1768.

By the same token, the Yarmouth, MA settlers were some of the earliest to arrive after the pilgrims arrived in Plymouth. Yarmouth was organized and named in 1639 by John Crowe, Thomas Howes and Anthony Thacher. The town is named after Great Yarmouth, a town in the county of Norfolk, on the east coast of England,which is itself at the mouth of the Yare River.

Yarmouth was the second Cape Cod town to incorporate, following closely on the heels of Sandwich. At the height of the shipping boom, Yarmouth Port boasted a “Captain’s Row” of 50 fine houses, most of which remain showpieces to this day. Several of these historic homes have been preserved as museums, two of which that can still be viewed today.

Winslow Crocker House, One of the First Settler Families

The only property on Cape Cod preserved by Historic New England, the Winslow Crocker House, built around 1780, deserves every honor. A shingled Georgian style, it’s full of antiques collected by Mary Thacher, a descendant of the town’s first land grantee. Anthony Thacher and his family had a difficult crossing from Europe. Their ship sank off Cape Ann in 1635, and although their four children drowned, Thacher and his wife made it to shore, clinging to the family cradle, that you can view its replica in the parlor.

Captain Bangs Hallet House Musuem, an 1800s Captain’s House

Typical of the sumptuous tastes of the time, this 1840 Greek Revival house is named for the China trade seafarer who lived here from 1863 to 1893. The Historical Society of Old Yarmouth has filled it with furnishings typical of a mid-18th-century sea captain’s home. Its as if the captain had just returned from a 18-month voyage to China. His gifts of silk fabric, toys, porcelain, and tea are displayed, as well as maritime exhibits and costumes from the period.

Yarmouth, NS, an Ellis Island for Canada

Victorian Costume at Yarmouth Museum, NS

By the same token, the Yarmouth County Museum and Archives houses one of the largest costume collections in Nova Scotia, the third largest collection of ship portraits and the largest non-institutional archives in Nova Scotia. Nestled in a historical Victorian neighborhood, the museum draws thousands of visitors every year. See a lighthouse lens that weighs 3,300 pounds, a stone that may have been engraved by Vikings, and extensive displays on Yarmouth’s shipping history!

Yarmouth MA & Yarmouth NS, Home of Iconic Lighthouses

Both Yarmouths also proudly lay claim to their historic lighthouses that have lit the way for seafaring vessels throughout the last three centuries. In the case of Yarmouth, NS, the Cape Fourchu Lightstation has just been named the most beautiful public space in all of Canada. It is the 2nd most photographed lighthouse after Peggy’s Cove. Recently converted to a non-profit association to save the lighthouse from demolition, its preservation and remarkable restoration has meant that this idyllic station can still be enjoyed by all.

Whether it’s an intimate destination wedding, or a lobster boil on the new outdoor patio, or a bonfire with s’mores overlooking the rocky cliffs, it’s the perfect setting for an unforgettable event. You can even sound the foghorn, however, it can only be sounded in fair weather, so they’ve unofficially renamed it the fair weather foghorn.

Cape Fourchu has been welcoming visitors since 1604, when Samuel de Champlain landed and named the area Cap Forchu, meaning forked tongue of land. By the mid-nineteenth century, Yarmouth was a booming seaport with vessels coming in an out of the harbor; therefore, Cape Fourchu was the ideal position for a lighthouse and foghorn. By 1870, Yarmouth was at its peak and was the second largest port of registry in Canada.

Lobster Boil at Tea Room Cafe

The Mug Up Tea Room, open since 2006, very efficiently managed by Denise Nickerson, is also a great way to experience the lighthouse and local Nova Scotia fare like the lobster boil. Slightly different than the New England Clam Bake, the Lobster Boil is actually steamed in sea water. The Nova Scotia tradition is to bring a 2-liter plastic bottle to the beach, fill it with salt water and then use it to steam the lobsters and/or shellfish. The Tea Room has also become famous for its bread pudding, served with a buttery caramel sauce, the ultimate in comfort food.

Point Gammon Light, One of the First Cape Lighthouses

Point Gammon LIghthouse, Yarmouth MA

Yarmouth, MA is also home of an iconic lighthouse in Cape Cod, Point Gammon Lighthouse. It is just east of the entrance to Lewis Bay and Hyannis Harbor, and approximately two miles north of the ledges known as Bishops and Clerks. The point’s name comes from an old term used in the game of backgammon. Mariners trying to pass between the point and the offshore ledges were deceived, or “gammoned,” which often resulted in disaster.

As the Port of Hyannis grew in importance it became obvious that a navigational aid was needed to help mariners negotiate the area. Construction was swiftly completed on a lighthouse and went into service in 1816, with seven lamps and reflectors exhibiting a fixed white light. The conical tower was built of stone, with 20-foot walls and the tower topped by an octagonal iron lantern.

The first keeper, Samuel Adams Peak, died in 1824. His teenage son, John, took over and remained keeper until 1858, when the light was discontinued. This gives Point Gammon the distinction of having only two keepers, both from the same family.

Finally, both Yarmouths are renowned for their beaches and family-friendly locales. In the case of Yarmouth, NS, Smuggler’s Cove is a great beach to go to at low tides, and is where pirates and liquor smugglers could steal away and not be seen. Port Maitland is another beach complete with picnic tables and change houses. It may even inspire you to paint, as it’s a favorite spot for artists to paint. Most of the beaches in Nova Scotia also offer breathtaking vistas of the rocky Nova Scotia shoreline.

The Town of Yarmouth MA is also home to many beautiful saltwater and fresh water beaches. During the summer season, the beaches are open and fully staffed with lifeguards and gate attendants, etc. Most of the beaches have a bathhouse and some offer a snack bar to patrons.

So if you can’t decide which Yarmouth to visit, why not try both? That way, you can make your own comparison!

Wed
8
Aug '12

The Boston Tea Party Ships and Museum, Worth the 12-Year Wait

Costumed Actor at Boston Tea Party Museum

The newly-opened Boston Tea Party Ships and Museum has created a experience that is both multimedia, and multi-sensory, and offers a variety of ways of telling the important story of the Boston Tea Party. Historic Tours of America Inc., the new owners of the museum and its accompanying Teaships, have set a much higher standard for other historic museums to follow around the country.

The Boston Tea Party incident that took place on December 16, 1773 in the Boston harbor, is world-renowned as the quintessential event that sparked the American Revolution. Yet a string of bad luck and bureaucratic permitting issues prevented a museum to fully commemorate the moment for over 12 years.

The original Tea Party Museum opened in 1973 and included a replica of the Brig Beaver, one of three tall ships raided by colonists that helped spark the American Revolution. The museum didn’t really capture the essence of such a monumental event, was poorly funded, and neglected basic essentials such as heat and bathrooms.

In 2001, lightning struck the site’s wooden building, sparking a fire that caused enough damage that the City of Boston ordered its demolition. The adjoining Beaver Teaship was towed to Gloucester for renovation, waiting for a new museum to house it. Plans for a new museum called for the addition of replicas of the Dartmouth and the Eleanor, the two other ships raided by colonists in 1773.

Thanks to a $25 million dollar state fund derived from hotel taxes and tourist revenues, the new museum was finally financed properly, with $18 million from the Boston Convention Center Authority and the City of Boston contributing $3 million. That and the high level of commitment by the Historic Tours of America led to the creation of a top-notch museum, a leader in both innovation and use of technology.

The new museum is part of a broader plan to enliven Fort Point Channel, an evolving recreational and cultural district after decades of cleanup. Other plans in and around the museum include the installation of new docks and boat ramps, floating art displays, and barges to host musical performances. Mayor Thomas Menino has likened the effort to creating a floating Boston Common.

The days are gone of museums with wax renditions of figures posing to commemorate historical events, or artifacts behind glass displays of relics of a bygone era. This museum brings the Tea Party incident alive, including realistic holographic speeches given by various important people of the era, one of only two known tea chests that survived the incident, and a panoramic re-enactment of the shot heard around the world, in case you’ve never made it on April 19th at 5:30 am on Lexington Green!

My personal favorite was the lively debate between Sam Adams and King George III about the tea party incident. I immediately thought of the Harry Potter Movies where the framed portraits moved and talked! From beginning to end, the whole experience was engaging–we were first led into an assembly-hall looking room, handed a small card with a short bio of who we historically represented and some rules of conduct for the hearing itself.

We then moved into a room where two holographs of women, one from the upper class, and loyal to King George, and one who sided with the revolutionaries who debated what was happening before them.

I won’t divulge all of the unique experiences, but will say that you even got to experience a historic cup of tea with some locally made pastries. The servers were costumed in historical dress, completely in character, even to the point of responding as if it really was 1773. For example, my friend was visiting from Colorado, so the server replied, “Oh yes, that is that territory that I think will eventually become a state.” It made the experience even more real.

I’m so glad that Boston finally has a museum to call its own, just like the Statue of Liberty in New York, the Liberty Bell in Philadelphia and the White House in Washington, D. C.

Mon
6
Aug '12

Barracuda Tavern, Moby Dick Meets Pottery Barn

Wooden Dory Hanging at Barracuda Tavern

If you’re looking for a place to step into a Caribbean Paradise, out of the New England sweltering heat, the Barracuda Tavern in Downtown Crossing is just the place. Owned by Luka Stipanov, originally from Croatia, his dream of owning and operating his own restaurant has been a lifelong dream.

I recently interviewed Luka Stipanov about his unique bar:

Luka, how did you come up with the name Barracuda Tavern?

I grew up in Croatia, on the Adriatic Sea, a quick 45-minute boat ride to Venice, Italy. I was a part of a generation that helped build 25- to 45-foot wooden sailboats. The Adriatic coast on the Croatian side is rocky with pebble beaches and mountains jutting out of the turquoise ocean. I used to spend my summer days sailing in the morning and scuba diving in the afternoon.

That’s where Barracuda comes into the picture. One day while cave diving in a restricted area, I found a place with fresh water pouring into a cave. I spent ten minutes looking around when I suddenly looked left and found myself staring at an shiny, spotted, double-row toothed, 7-foot fish right in front of me! I never forgot this moment and became fascinated by this barracuda, so hence the tavern name.

Tell me about your background in the restaurant business. I understand that your family owned a tavern in Croatia, so did this inspire you to open your own place?

My great-grandparents owned the Stipova Tavern in the Pecine area since the 1880s; they lived above the bar and ran it until 1977. When I was a child, I used to go downstairs to the closed restaurant and play in the bar with shelves full of dusty glasses and plates. They never reopened but I always had in the back of my mind to open my own bar.

How did you end up in Boston when you studied in Georgia?

I went to visit my parents, who had a condo in Back Bay in 2000, and never left!

How did you come about choosing this Downtown Crossing Location?

Why this location? I worked in this area as a bartender for 10 years at Kennedy’s Midtown and Emmet’s Irish Pub. When I worked at Kennedy’s, I used to pass a boarded-up bar named Hank’s across the street from Littlest Bar. I walked by this location a million times trying to figure out who owned it and why I couldn’t get in to see it. It took almost seven years to find the right person to talk to me about the lease. I just happened to be buying captain’s chairs and tables to repaint them, when I received a call to finally view the bar. I seized the moment to open the Barracuda Tavern.

The former bar had quite the reputation! Tell me more about its history.

It was formerly called Hank’s Tavern, a place where thugs hung out. The owner was nicknamed Hank the Bank, a bookie, with his sons selling everything stolen in that part of town.  The FBI shut them down for good in the 1990’s for selling drugs.

 Why did you choose a Caribbean decor?

My wife and I spent our honeymoon in Key West. We really had a blast, so we wanted to do a nautical, Caribbean, Key West atmosphere. We wanted to take you away on vacation from work and the New England snow.

How is the Barracuda Tavern Unique?

Well my wife and I have two different but complimentary styles. I am Moby Dick, i. e., wanting an old-school fishing town style and my wife is Pottery Barn, nice and elegant, so we put them together to make a homey feeling. And where do you find a 80-year old wooden Dory from Gloucester hanging on the ceiling? We are also open 7 days a week, until 1:30 am, so several of the downtown hotels are sending us their patrons once the hotel bars close.

As far as menu goes, we offer light food, or tapas-style, as people come to drink and just want to nibble on food. We offer lunch specials: Mondays  are $5 burgers, pulled pork or chicken sandwiches, Tuesdays are $2 tacos (beef, chicken, fish and pork) and Wednesdays are $0.25 buffalo wings. Summer deals are $0.75 oysters and $15 1.25 lb. chick lobsters  every day. Personally, I found the conch fritters delicious!

Finally, the bar offers quite the extensive selection of unique beers. I sampled a hard cider, while my friend enjoyed a refreshing ginger beer, usually only found in the Caribbean. I’ll definitely be back to sample other drinks–their cocktail list looked inviting.

Photo Credit: Barracuda Tavern Website

Sat
28
Jul '12

Why Vacate, when you can Staycate at the Royal Sonesta in Cambridge?

View from Royal Sonesta Hotel

Seems like staycations are still the rage for the summer of 2012, so why not the Royal Sonesta Hotel in Cambridge? With the other-side view of Boston from the Charles River, it’s the hidden view that only the locals seem to know. I drive by the Royal Sonesta at least once a week, but never knew the hidden luxuries that awaited me.

The Royal Sonesta has created a package for summer visitors called Summer Fest to make the most of their strategic location across the street from the Charles River Bike Path. Free bikes are offered to guests who want to work off their dinner at Restaurante dante or just enjoy the breathtaking views of Boston.

We opted for the free Charles River Boat Tour, and were glad we did. Maybe not as well-known as the Boston Duck Tours, we found the Charles River Cruise an elegant alternative. With some of the best views of the downtown Boston skyline, we learned about some of Boston’s hidden history that made us appreciate our town even more. Although the weather was chilly, we could still enjoy the tour inside the paned-glass interior, and take pictures, which would not have been possible on the Boston Duck Tour. The Charles River Boat Company also offers a sunset cruise, so we’ll be sure to come back, especially during leaf-peeping season, for a vivid skyline with a rainbow-colored sunset!

Even though most hotels own the restaurants therein, this is not the case for Restaurant dante, the Royal Sonesta’s independently owned and operated fine dining restaurant. Opened in 2006 by the Magistris family, Dante has won a number of awards, including Best Upscale Italian from the Boston Magazine, and the Cracker Jack Award by Stuff Magazine. Dante even won a very prestigious international award from the Chaine des Rotisseurs, the world’s oldest international gastronomic society, based on the traditions of the French royal guild of meat roasters.

The sfizi menu is a great way to grab a few affordable bites and splurge on some of their wonderful digestifs for dessert. We opted for a Gambrinus red and an Erbice Recioto white. I would compare the Gambrinus to a ruby port with tastes of almonds and cherry, and the Erbice Recioto was akin to a tawny port. What a wonderful lingering way to leave a restaurant.

We didn’t get a chance to enjoy the Boston’s best saltwater hotel pool with retractable roof or the Royal Treatments Spa. Just across from the hotel is the Museum of Science, with its IMAX Theatre and Planetarium. Guess we’ll just have to go back for more!

Fri
13
Jul '12

Nova Scotia 2012: Tall Ships, Hidden Treasure and Pirates Galore

Lunenburg, the Prettiest Painted Town in Canada

While everyone else this year is focusing on the 100th Anniversary of the Titanic, the Nova Scotia province has so much more to offer. This year, Halifax, Lunenburg and Shelburne welcome the Tall Ships from July 19 to 29; the port cities hosting the Tall Ships are pulling out all the stops to showcase what each town has to offer. Don’t forget either that this year is the War of 1812 Bicentennial, so Halifax, the Naval center for the War of 1812, is commemorating the event with re-enactments galore.

Nova Scotia is also celebrating its maritime tradition by showcasing some of its unique history throughout the province. For example, Lunenburg is known for its shipbuilding, so the Bluenose II, the province’s famous fishing schooner, is being carefully restored for a launch sometime this summer. Visitors can watch the renovation in progress, along with learning about the history of fishing and shipbuilding in Lunenburg at the Fisheries Museum of the Atlantic.

If you’re looking for pirates, Shelburne is featuring its Cap’n Pike’s Pirate Rendez-Vous, in conjunction with the Tall Ships in Shelburne Harbor, so be sure to bring all your pirate regalia for the Bucaneer’s Ball on Saturday night. Or check out the Mahone Bay Pirate Festival from Aug 3-5, so if you can’t make the Tall Ships, you can still see the pirates!

Since the pirates’ drink of choice is rum, or distilled spirits, be sure to stop and sample the  Ironworks Distillery’s new black rum made especially for the Bluenose II re-launch. The only microdistillery in all of Nova Scotia, Ironworks has only been open since 2010 and is putting Lunenburg on the microdistillery map.

If its hidden treasure you’re looking for, how about the famed Captain Kidd Treasure? Rumored for over 200 years to be buried at Oak Island, just south of Halifax, even Boston philantropist David Mugar offered some funding to participate in a recent study by Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution. If you stay at the Atlantica Hotel & Marina Oak Island, you have a view of the island from your deck!

Owner of the Sea Dog Saloon in Shelburne

Halifax is really putting on quite the show, since it’s the last stop for the Tall Ships in the North American region. The first ever Georges Island Concert will be held on July 21st, featuring Hey Rosetta, Newfoundland’s latest musical discovery. Nova Scotia’s finest musicians for jazz, blues, hip hop, folk and rock will perform free concerts throughout the Tall Ships’ weekend. On Saturday, July 21st, the Tall Ships’ Orchestra will perform Tschaikovsky’s 1812 Overturecomplete with cannons, church bells, and fireworks, as well as a newly CBC-commisioned 2012 Overture .”

The Taste of Nova Scotia Pavilion on the Halifax waterfront will feature local Nova Scotia cuisine, and believe it or not, Nova Scotia wines!  The Catch Seafood Culinary Stage will feature cooking and product demonstrations, and celebrity chefs including Chuck Hughes and Anna Olson.

Even the Maritimes Museum that houses the famous Titanic Exhibit is coming alive with re-enactors that will be stationed along the waterfront and in the Museum courtyard, treating visitors to a glimpse of military life during the War of 1812. Daily activities include demon- strations of 1812 press gangs, gun drills, medicine at sea, pipes and drums, costumed interpretation and children’s activities.

So whether it’s history, music, gourmet food or sailing that intrigues you, this summer in Nova Scotia is not to be missed!

Sat
30
Jun '12

Join in Boston’s Tall Ships and Other Historic Events for This Year’s 4th of July

Boston's Tall Ship, USS Constitution, Credit FayFoto

In case you don’t know the history of the Tall Ships’ events, you can thank our own Massachusetts-born President, John F. Kennedy. Operation Sail, Inc, (OpSail) was established in 1961 as the brainchild of Frank Braynard and Nils Hansell, who shared a vision of fostering goodwill in an era of global uncertainty by bringing together the world’s remaining windships. They envisaged a nautical spectacular that would culminate in a parade of sails around the harbors of the world.

The duo traveled the globe to rally support and recruit participants, eventually gaining the attention of President John F. Kennedy, an ardent seaman who enthusiastically offered his endorsement in 1963.  “The sight of so many ships gathered from the distant corners of the world should remind us that strong, disciplined, and venturesome men still can find their way safely across uncertain and stormy seas.”

This year marks the bicentennial of the War of 1812, which has special significance for Boston, because its own Tall Ship, USS Constitution was constructed to fight against the British in the War of 1812.

Don’t miss the Annual Sail of USS Constitution on July 4th, from 11 am – 1 pm, where the USS Constitution will be escorted from Charlestown to Castle Island by the USCGC Eagle with a 21-cannon salute and Blue Angel fly over.

The Tall Ships will be in Boston from June 30 – July 5, after which they will sail to Newport, RI for continued festivities.

Below are some of the highlights not to be missed in this year’s Harborfest:

Opening of New Boston Tea Party Museum (Open June 26)

Replica of Tea Party Ship at Museum Site

Twelve long years in the making, delayed by permitting issues and lack of funding, the pivotal event that sparked the American Revolution is finally being recognized in Boston with the opening of the new Boston Tea Party Museum. Live actors, high-tech, interactive exhibits, authentically restored tea ships and the stirring, multi-sensory documentary “Let it Begin Here,” are just a taste of what you’ll see, hear and feel. Meet the colonists, explore the ships and dump tea overboard just as the Sons of Liberty did on that fateful night of December 16, 1773.

Boston’s 4th of July Pops Celebration

Fireworks finale over Boston Harbor

Boston’s 4th of July Event was founded in 1974 when David Mugar suggested to famed Boston Pops Conductor, Arthur Fiedler, that in order to revive the diminishing Esplanade concert series, it might be a good idea to play Tchaikovsky’s “1812 Overture” with a few extras. For the next Fourth of July, howitzer cannons, fireworks and church bells were added to the concert so that, in Arthur Fiedler’s own words, “All Hell could break loose.” For the first time, a July Fourth fireworks display took place over the Charles River.

Thirty-nine years later, over 500,000 visitors attend this celebration, with over 7 million TV viewers worldwide. This year also marks the Bicentennial celebration of the writing of the Star-Spangled Banner, so be sure not to miss Keith Lockhart’s own interpretation of this world-renowned piece.

Sun
24
Jun '12

Mashpee, A Historic Cape Hideaway

Mashpee–A Historic Cape Hideaway

Mashpee Powwow by Yardape

If you’re looking for a quick Cape getaway from Boston, Mashpee is a good option. Just over an hour from Boston, and literally just over the Sagamore Bridge, you’re in Mashpee. Known for its plentiful streams and lakes for fishing, renowned golf courses and its annual powwow during the 4th of July weekend, Mashpee exemplifies the hidden Cape with a wealth of history.

The name Mashpee comes from the Anglicized name of the Wampanoag tribe of mass, meaning great and nippe meaning water, referring to adjoining Wakeby Lake that is greater at one end than the other. English colonists settled Mashpee in 1658 with the assistance of Richard Bourne from Sandwich. After converting the Wampanoag to Christianity, they were allowed to govern themselves from 1660 to 1676, when they were grouped along with the Sakonnet and Nauset to form the largest Indian reservation in Massachusetts. After the American Revolution, in 1788, Mashpee self-government was revoked, considered a failure by the colonists.

Much of their native culture is still preserved to this day in the form of the Mashpee Wampanoag Tribal Museum, complete with replicas of a wigwam and a dugout canoe, among other preserved artifacts. One of the most well-known Indian events is the 91st annual powwow, held during the 4th of July weekend in Mashpee. The longest running powwow  on the East Coast,  attendees can look forward to Native American dancing, jewelry, games, food, art. wampum and other crafts.

Running of the Herring, aka, Alewife on Cape Cod

Herring by Monkey Face News

One of the most abundant fishes in the world, herring, or alewives, are found along the Atlantic coast from Canada to Florida. Ocean-dwellers most of their lives, each year they return to the freshwater systems where they were born to spawn, a sign of Spring on the Cape. In April and May, vast schools make the cross from the ocean into freshwater ponds and brooks via herring runs. Dark pools of fish wait their turn to cross over, then with the help of the rushes of water, the herring leap the natural and artificial ladders that assist them in the final leg of their journey.

After spawning, the female alewife lays up to 100,000 eggs, then sets off for the return journey to the ocean. The eggs drift for several days, sink and stick to rock and debris, then hatch two to three days later. By autumn, the young follow the adults’ path to sea to become part of the return journey the following year.

Mashpee Commons

Mashpee is moving up the Cape Cod map with its Mashpee Commons Shopping Center. Built in 1960, the first tenants were a food store, a home furnishing/hardware store, a bank, a restaurant and a theatre. In 1986, however, the shopping center was bought and redeveloped slowly into what it is today. Future plans including a village style green because Mashpee has never had a town center, as this was not part of the Wampanoag tradition.

Cape Cod Country Smiles Doll Shop

American Girl Boutique

I just happened upon this adorable locally owned shop for the American Girl doll at the Mashpee Commons (East). Invented by Pleasant Rowland in 1986,  she was inspired to create the American Girl brand because of her long-standing interest in history. A visit to Colonial Williamsburg led her to think that young girls might become interested in history through identifying with dolls based on historic periods. She then founded the Pleasant Company, which manufactures the American Girl dolls, books and accessories. In 1998, Rowland sold the company to Mattel, but continues her commitment to philanthropy of children’s charities. In 2010, the product line name was changed to My American Girl to include over 50 dolls representing every type of ethnicity available.

Newcomb Hollow Shop

Cape Cod Lamp by Judy Stiles

Brand new shop, the Newcomb Hollow just opened in November 2011 in Mashpee, with another shop in Wellfleet. The owner is talented ceramics artist, Judith Stiles, an MFA graduate student from the University of Massachusetts, in Amherst. Recipient of a Ford Foundation Grant, Stiles has taught ceramics at Skidmore College and the Pratt Art Institute.

Choose from her own lovely ceramic lamps with bases that mimic a Cape beach scene, or hand-painted silk scarves, or jewelry from other Cape Cod artists. Stiles sells art and photographs from local artists and prices it affordably compared to her more upscale neighbors in Mashpee. My friend Liz bought a strand of fresh water pearls marked down to $33 from $95!

South Cape Beach, Mashpee

South Cape Beach, located between Waquoit Bay and Nantucket Sound, contains a wide variety of coastal environments, including barrier beach and dunes, salt marsh, scrub oak/pitch pine woodland and “kettle” ponds. A magnificent white sand beach stretches for over a mile. Over-the-dune boardwalks, a small parking area and portable seasonal bathrooms make this a lovely place to spend a day at the shore. Interpretive programs are offered during the summer months.

So whether you prefer delving into Native American history, casting your line for local alewife, shopping for Cape Cod art and souvenirs, or just lounging on a pristine beach with a dime store novel, Mashpee has a little of something for everyone.

Fri
8
Jun '12

Nova Scotia Inns and B&Bs: Rustic, Roses or Romance, Take Your Pick

Garden House B&B, Wolfville NS, on the Bay of Fundy

PLEASE NOTE: This post has a minor edit because I was corrected by a B&B owner as to the definition of a Nova Scotia B&B, which differs from an American B&B. My apologies to my readers.

In case you don’t know the distinction, a B&B (Bed & Breakfast) in Nova Scotia is small, with 4 rooms or less. Some have shared baths, but in recent years, more B&Bs are installing ensuite baths. In contrast is the Inn, which usually has 10 rooms or more, with private baths. Bed & Breakfasts offer breakfast as a value-add, it’s also a great way to meet other travelers at the breakfast table. Inns sometimes have restaurants that offer dinner as their value-add.

In the past 5 years, travelers are dramatically choosing B&Bs and Inns over hotels, preferring the unique experience they receive from a B&B or inn, vs. the bland experience received at a branded hotel. Plus, the pricing is considerably less, as the B&Bs & inns have much lower overhead and pass the savings along to the consumer. B&Bs are also offering more amenities, like free WIFI, free parking, one additional meal, etc.

In Nova Scotia, the existence of B&Bs & Inns has always been dominant, because of the high percentage of Victorian and historic homes that are converted into B&Bs. Also, relative to other parts of Canada, the operating costs and the real estate of B&Bs is much lower than in other provinces, like Vancouver for example.

Below are four examples of Inns & B&Bs in the Nova Scotia & New Brunswick area:

Fundy Heights B&B, Saint John, Most Affordable B&B in New Brunswick

Hunter's Lodge Room at the Fundy Heights B&B in Saint John, NB

As Americans now have to travel to Saint John, New Brunswick to take the ferry to Digby, Nova Scotia, the Fundy Heights B&B is literally a 3-minute drive to the Saint John ferry. Even so, it’s located in a quiet residential neighborhood with the loudest noise being the sound of birds chirping as an alarm clock!

From the outside, it’s a typical two-story house, but once inside, it’s a lovely Victorian style interior with period antiques. Five rooms are decorated with fun antiques, with two serving as weekly rentals when the occasion warrants it.

Downstairs, two rooms are available on a weekly basis. One of the rooms resembles a hunter’s lodge, complete with wood paneling on walls and molded ceilings and a working stone fireplace. The ensuite bathroom has a whirlpool bath and a stand-alone shower, so it’s no wonder it works well as a weekly rental.

Nancy & Terry Cromwell have operated this B&B for the past 10 years, ranked as the most affordable B&B in Saint John, at $85-95/night. Plus, you can’t beat the hospitality of the Cromwells; they’re a wealth of information about the Saint John area and proudly give you advice where to go and what to see.

Garden House B&B, Wolfville, NS,

Right on Main Street in Wolfville, NS, is the Garden House B&B. The house is a historic home, circa 1830, and is decorated with a down-home country-style. Fragrant flowers from the expansive garden are found in every nook and cranny in the house. If you can’t find the owner, Brian MacKenzie, chances are he’s in the garden, and the results are astounding. Plus, he has a backdrop of the Minas Bay and Cape Blomidon on the horizon, in the Bay of Fundy.

The location of the house is equidistant to the panoramic view of the dykes and downtown Wolfville, where you can find anything from chocolatiers, to cheese-makers, to local artists’ renditions of the local landscapes.

Our room had a view of the dykes through the small paned windows, so I felt transported in the time to when the first settlers endured many hardships to survive. Now they are doing much more than surviving in Wolfville; thanks to the burgeoning nearby Nova Scotia wine industry, Wolfville is very much thriving. Single rooms are between $60-80/room, and $80-105/room for larger room, with 3 rooms total.

King George Inn, Annapolis Royal, NS

Upstairs Foyer at the King George Inn, Annapolis Royal, NS

If you’re looking for affordable and romantic at the same time, the King George Inn is the king of romance. The parlor and two dining rooms are furnished exclusively in antiques, with a sweeping Gone with the Wind staircase in the main hall, and a square grand piano in the large dining room. The eight rooms are furnished with oak bedroom sets along with Victorian ambiance lamps, rocking chairs, oriental rugs and Victorian-era paintings.

Operated by Faith McStravick for close to 20 years, she upgraded the inn by building bathrooms in each of the rooms, with jacuzzi baths in some of the rooms. She added portable electric fireplaces as a nice Victorian touch, which she jokingly refers to as “romance by remote.”

You will also find individual coffee makers all prepped and ready to go–if you take cream in your coffee, the “dairy fairy” stops by your room in the wee hours of the morning and leaves a bowl of individual creamers next to your door. Rates range from $74-$99, and from $99-129 for larger rooms and suites.

According to Faith, the New England states of New York, New Jersey and Massachusetts used to be the top states coming to her inn. For the past five years, however, the same three have dropped to the last three. Right now, the top three states coming to her inn are California, Texas and Florida. She attributes this decline in tourism from the northeast as a direct result of the cancellation of the ferry service in Yarmouth, NS and the rising gas prices as the secondary reason people have stopped coming from the states.

So even though it’s a bit further for us New Englanders to travel, it’s still very worth the trip. Just make getting there part of the fun, and stop along the way in Portland & Bar Harbor, Maine and Saint John, New Brunswick. All of the above-mentioned inns & B&Bs are available for longer stays and would welcome New Englanders with open arms. Plus, so many ties exist between the two regions, it behooves us as Americans to delve more into this history and embrace it.

Mon
28
May '12

Global Affordable Rates for iPhone with Cellomobile while Traveling

At long last, I’ve found a solution to traveling internationally with my iPhone. Thanks to Cellomobile, and Andre Valencia, an iPhone consultant who unlocked my iPhone, I can now use my iPhone while traveling internationally. I still have to turn off my data, which is charged at a lovely $22/megabyte, so any time you receive an email while traveling, count on $22/email! But at least I can call and receive phone messages while traveling! The SIM card is good for 3 months, plus a $.29/minute charge, which can also be recharged when needed.

Also, Cellomobile was very responsive when I first ordered the SIM card. They immediately called to explain that I had ordered a SIM card with very expensive rates, so they changed it to a better rate. They also worked with me to try to install the SIM card in my Blackberry, which didn’t work, then helped me to get it to work with my iPhone.

I just have to remember to turn off my data plan as I cross over the border, and turn off automatic updates in the general settings, then I’m all set.

I’m so relieved to have this solution for my upcoming Nova Scotia trip. Thanks again Cellomobile and Andre Valencia!

PS–mention the promo code “Friend10″ for 10% off your cell phone rental next time you are traveling, and tell them I referred you so I get credit for the referral! Or you can call 877-602-2999.