Steve Beckta has done it again, this time with a much more casual, fun restaurant than his first success, Beckta Dining & Wine. No more tablecloths, just a sheer red canopied ceiling to add a touch of class. The decor is modern retro with stainless steel curved Italian stools in front of an open kitchen concept where foodies can drool over the Chef’s prep.
When asked how he came up with the concept, he simply replied, “I wanted to do this at Beckta, and even had a place near the kitchen where people could watch the chef at work, but everyone still seemed to want the fine dining, with tablecloths and candles and flowers. When saw this location open up, I immediately leased it and opened Play, where the emphasis is on the food itself.”
He also went on to add that he wanted to use local ingredients and local wines, since nearby Ottawa farms offer excellent quality and choice of ingredients. Even Ontario winemakers are winning international awards for micro productions of boutique wines.
I was in Ottawa for Winterlude, so opted for the Winterlude Prix Fixe Menu. First course was a multi-colored carrot salad with pesto served with an off-dry Rosé from Henry of Pelham. I then moved on to the best hanger steak I ever tasted, perfectly cooked and oh so tender, from a butcher two blocks away–how’s that for local?
After a difficult decision, I chose the Dreamsicle Crème Brulée, perfectly paired with a 20 Bees Niagara sweet wine, fabulous match. The wine pairings by the sommelier, Grayson McDiarmid, demonstrated to me an intimate knowledge and passion about each wine served, proudly wearing the Canadian wine label.
I also sneaked a peek at the cheese list, but just couldn’t manage it this time around. Next time, for sure!

Start discussion »
Leave a Reply